L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Miami
Nestled away in the heart of the design district are several restaurants, including a few Michelin star restaurants, the most prestigious of which is L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon. Named after the late chef who passed away in 2018, the tradition of his name is carried on by several Chef proteges around the world. The Miami location is currently the restaurant with the most Michelin stars in the state of Florida.
Whether you are aware of it or not, to eat at L'Atelier is to pay homage to the late "Chef of the Centuy," Joel Robuchon himself as the most decorated Michelin Chef in the world and as the mentor to so many modern day (including celebrity) chefs. At one point he had 26 restaurants in over 13 cities that were rated as high as 3 michelin stars (the most). Starting as a pastry chef apprentice at the age of 15, he eventually obtained a 3 michelin star rating within 3 years of opening his first restaurant at the age of 38.
I remember 15 years ago, I ate at my first fine dining restaurant, L'Atelier in Las Vegas, at the time a 1-michelin star restaurant and I ordered dishes because I wanted to know how they were "supposed" to taste. I could not afford to eat in the 3-star restaurant in town named simply, "Joel Robuchon." I swore one day I'd return to eat there but never have as of yet. Here, I watched a sous-chef stand at a stove and whisk puree de pomme (mashed potatoes) for half an hour while my steak was being prepared. It was also
But, enough of the personal history lesson... My recent experience at the Miami location had high expectations which were met. The names of dishes on the menu reflects another generation and the personality of Joel Robuchon with "understated elegance" as each dish delivered with the flavors it advertised. There were no surprises in these dishes. Just as, the story goes, Babe Ruth would point to where he wanted to hit the home run, so too, the dishes on the menu stated what they would deliver and did so. The service was outstanding as the layout of the open kitchen allowed for 8 servers to float around and deliver dishes. These same serves also were plating and made sure the dishes had everything they needed. They also were knowledgeable about the food they were serving to add to the dining experience. Of course, this methodology had been honed over decades to ensure it would work smoothly. It was nice to see it in action. This article focuses mainly on my Evolution or gustation menu during my summer 2023 visit.
Interior Dining Room
The interior of the restaurant was laid out in the familiar bar stool style setting around the open kitchen area with black and red decor. There are several dining tables surrounding for larger parties. If you've been to other L'Atelier locations you will recognize the similar design.
There were several menus to choose from the evolution degustation menu, the chef's sampler, the summer menu and of course all the a la carte items. I wanted a complete experience so I chose the degustation menu.
Pour Commencer
Literally meaning "The beginning," this dish was indeed a perfect begnning. This was a nice duo-dish with a "foie gras royale" in a port wine reduction with parmesan foam on the left and a heirloom tomato, in a cashew jelly puree. I had mistakenly thought the right side of the dish would be tomato in cold broth but it was instead in a nice mildly savory jelly which really was a nice touch to the dish. The foie gras in port wine reduction with parmesan foam really touched my desire for savory flavors.
Les Crevettes
Les Crevettes, literally meaning "The shrimp." The next dish was a spot prawn carpaccio, served with hibiscus dashi rhubarb and blood orange tuile. Tuile is the french word for tile, as in roofing tile, which is what the baked good resembles.
Les Legumes Verts
Literal translation "The green Vegetables." Warm composition of green vegetables, with coriander flower, mint, goat cheese.
Le Risotto
Saffron risotto, razor clam, chorizo aioli, pistachios and bell peppers. I love risotto, as such, I loved this dish, as presented.
Le Sainte Jacques
Loosely translated to mean "King Scallop." Read more about Sainte Jacques and others here. Scallop served in cilantro broth, coconut emulsion and calamari. A nice combination of flavors that I enjoyed quite a bit.
Le Ris De Veau
Roasted veal sweetbread, tomato essence and artichoke "bearnaise." If you are not familiar with what a sweetbread is, you should read this primer. I happen to love sweetbreads. This is literally the thymus of veal.
Le Filet Mignon
A perfectly prepared Filet Mignon
Pre-Dessert
Watermelon with candied part on top tasted like a cherry/watermelon Jolly Rancher candy but with softer consistency.
La Foret Noire
LIterally, "the Dark Forest," this dish is served resembling a mushroom.
Petit Four
A chocolate pastry concoction to end the night.
Menus
In Conclusion
A very enjoyable meal. I love the understated elegance of the dishes, simply named "risotto" on the menu but delivered with complex flavors with saffron, clams and chorizo aioli. The same can be said of the scallops which is simply titled but comes with cilantro broth, coconut emulsion and calamari. If you are looking to impress, this is the meal to have.
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